The Puppy Mill Rescues and How to Help Them Adapt

I think it's very important to understand what you are getting into when you adopt a puppy mill dog.

Problems:

• Locked in a very small cage crowded with multiple dogs
• Constantly standing in own pee and poop
• Cages are mostly stacked on top of each other to save space, so dogs may be getting peed and pooped on
• There is barely to NO human interaction with these dogs/pups
• There may not be adequate or appropriate vetting
• Dogs are interbred over and over again and may have illnesses due to environment or genetics

If you are aware you're adopting a dog from a puppy mill assess for these things:

• How shy your dog is
• Is there fear aggression? (tail down, backing up in a corner, growling, gritting teeth when you continue to walk toward her/him)
• Does the pup pee when you look or walk toward or pet him/her? (which is submissive peeing)
• Does him/her yelp, cry, or curl up in fear when you pet it?
• Does there seem to be health issues?
• Breathing
• Deformities (short snout, glossed over eye or blind, leg/arm deformities, etc)
• Stomach, digestive issues (diarrhea, blood in poop)
• Completely new to home life
• Does not seem potty trained, no matter what age
• Fears human touch, scared when you reach to pet him/her 
• Appears to love other dogs but no idea what a human is
• Pulls away from leash having never been walked on leash before
• Scared to explore spaces in your home (never seen a place so big!)
  

TIPS for adopting the puppy mill dog:

• The KEY is PATIENCE!!! (If you want a normal, happy go lucky dog, this may not be the option for you)
• The key to potty training is consistency. Since they come from a neglectful environment scolding and negative feedback doesn't help their already "shy/scared" behaviors.
• Clean up their messes (best not to let them see it when you're doing it)
• Create a consistent potty schedule within the family
• Positive reinforcement when they potty outside (ie treats, high pitch "good girl/boy", loads of petting)
• The leash:
• Give small treats while introducing the leash
• Lay the leash nearby, gently graze the leash along their neckline and treat if they don't back away
• When you click leash on and they don't pull away, treat
• Every time it becomes more of a norm, give verbal praise until it's a regular thing
• Introduce the human touch
• Where ever they find comfort, let them settle in the first couple hours and leave them be
• I find if there are other dogs available, they mingle better and observe how you interact with the other dogs
• Sit down where they are with treats in your hand and just ignore them unless they sniff (then treat or verbal praise)
• Slowly start leaving your hand nearby palm up and see if they will engage
• Pet them if they allow and slowly pet them longer and longer periods of time
• Progress (may take days or weeks) to belly rubs, hugging, holding, picking up
• New spaces
• A house and/or a big yard can be overwhelming!!
• Keep them to one room at a time and let them explore. 
• If they are completely shut down, leave them be and walk away and wait til they come to you or start exploring themselves
• Let them find a safe spot in each room
• Reinforce their safe spot with a doggy bed or blanket so they can associate comfort
• Normalizing
• Once they understand the leash, find the love of human touch (they ALL will love it once they discover it!), and realize a house is a home, the REAL training begins
• Apply walking, heeling, pulling disciplines
• Play with their paws and mouth often to adjust them for vet checkups and nail clipping
• If they insist on staying in one spot, do away with the bed or blanket and make they comfortable with a bigger area 

** Of note, all the photos on this page weren't of puppy mill dogs. They were quick snapshots of dogs in the crates on one of their journeys in the car awaiting to arrive at their furever homes. That's why they all look clean and happy. :) 

Caring for Heartworm Positive Dog

Sweetie was a hyper young lady who was full of energy and loved attention. She came to us shy as ever and any eye contact would make her submissively pee to surrender. With her, we learned if we or anyone ignored her she felt "invisible" and allowed her own timetable to get comfortable with people.


After opening up she loved to cuddle and needed to be by your side at all times. When she wasn't interested in walking or the leash she was plant her butt down and you couldn't pull her if you tried.

Sweetie was forfeited due to her heartworm positive status. Unfortunately owners believe heartworm preventative medication is expensive. HOWEVER, treatment is even worse. It's 2 shots of almost lethal medication and the dog HAS to be low energy for 6 -8 weeks after. (Imagine our surprise considering how energetic Sweetie is). We were very lucky she didn't have symptoms of bad heartworm so treatment was an option, some dogs are too far gone to survive treatment.


CRUCIAL UNDERSTANDING: The treatment kills worms growing inside all the parts of the heart. Once the worms die, they break down into chunks and these "chunks" can turn to clots which IF move around can cause your dog to have a stroke and DIE. Therefore low energy keeps the clots from moving into areas of the heart, lungs and brain too quickly to cause stroke. The rescue has had dogs who didn't make it through treatment (imagine how scared we were).

Even though she was an energetic dog, she also loved being mellow and cuddly. We never want to constantly keep a dog sedated with medication, so there are many ways to prevent them from being "too" hyper.


1. Keep them on a leash so they cannot run
2. Make sure they take their time at meal times not to rush and scuff their food
3. If they usually jump/scale couches and beds, give them steps or a way to get on the furniture without jumping
4. Do not rile them up with excitement and try to calm them down after returning home
5. Keep your activity to a minimum so they don't need to keep up (dogs feed off your energy)
6. Crate them or gate them in a small area when you are not home so they aren't roaming around potentially jumping on furniture
7. All family members should be on the same page about the expected energy level
8. If there are other dogs, let them out separately if need be, your dog in treatment will HAVE TO have special treatment, don't feel bad, it's saving their life!!


We made it through our 6 weeks, and she was adopted with much education on heartworm prevention for the rest of her life AND year round. Dogs who have been infected before have increase chance to get this again.


Her family contacted us several times after her adoption regarding her shyness and asked for suggestions. Her new family was god send, and so patient with her and kept re-reading our blog for her and realized she was beating all her milestones in shorter times than with us. They were motivated and loved her sweet face. It's all worked out and they just love her.

Link to doggy step  

How to Address Agression, Biting and Snarling

1.  If you have a child, it is VERY IMPORTANT to always supervise when a dog is present. Dogs are animals and can always be unpredictable, there is always human accountability when a dog bites

2.  Children NOT old enough to understand (3 and under) may be taught no when walking up to a dog head on, or touching or pulling a dog roughly

3.  Children old enough to understand (4 and up) may be taught to always ask before petting a dog. Always left the dog sniff their hand first. NEVER approach a dog head on (do it from his side, BUT also where it can see the child and not from behind) Get down to the dogs level and let it approach you.

 

4.  IF BITTEN (child or adult) please go to the nearest urgent care or emergency department because dogs do have different bacteria than us and bites can cause infection and may cause deeper damage than anticipated. Please consult physician advice for care. 

If a dog growls or snarls, realistically you should just take a step back and give him or her their space. IF you truly feel comfortable and have the confidence that the dog is not TRULY aggressive and just fearful, then you may try the techniques below to address this issue.

IF your dog snarls, growls or tries to bite when you are nearby or when guarding food or toys here are some things to be proactive:

• Establish who alpha is. (aggression may stem from your dog not sure if he/she can trust you, or not be aware who alpha is so they may try to claim alpha) 

• When letting dog outside - make them sit and stay while you open the door and pause, walk out first, or teach a "release"command when YOU say they can go
• Make them sit and hold before running to their food dish (you can also have a "release" command when YOU say they can eat)
• If you have multiple pets, establish dominance in the order you want. I have 2 dogs, one foster dog and a cat. I made our cat (Splint) the 2nd in line because he was most vulnerable in size and teeth size (lol) so if the dogs respect the cat, he would be safe. Then our PJ (eldest),  Joey (adopted foster), and lastly foster dog. 
• We always feed, greet, and whatever action that needs individual address in this order Splint, PJ, Joey and foster dog. (establish a chain of command)
• IF YOU HAVE CHILDREN: put your children into the chain! When you come home and the dogs run to you at the door, keep walking and ignore them until you've greet your children, THEN the dogs. 
• Have your children feed the dogs to create that bond that YOUR CHILD are the alpha providing food for the dogs

1. When playing with toys, the second they thrash the toy left and right (same gesture if they were killing pray) have a command to stop this behavior like a simple "no." This discourages aggressive behavior and encourages play, but not "kill"
2. If there is a special toy or item the dog guards aggressively, you can CAREFULLY try to take the toy away (or replace with another toy) and set it where they cannot reach. This will let them know aggression will not be tolerated and when they are good,then they will be rewarded
3. Once a toy/treat gets taken away, wait 5 to 10 minutes and then give it back to the dog. Then proceed to walk near the dog when it is playing, if the growling continues take the toy away again. ** Repeat this in small intervals and perhaps daily until the dog gets it 
4. Don't let a dog take a toy or food away in their own secret "corner" because it allows them to make this area "theirs" to guard which may enable aggressive behavior
5. If there are things they are especially protective about, certain bones or toys, just avoid buying them to create scenarios for aggression
6. When teaching toy handling or fetch, practice reaching into dogs mouth to get toy with command if necessary "let go", "drop it", and most importantly positively reward when they DO let it go! "Good job!" "Good boy/girl!" lots of petting, treats, or hugs and kisses.
7. When a dog gets overly excited don't encourage by more excitement. Ignore until they are calm before petting or rewarding. Excitement can turn into aggression quickly if not trained to see he signs.

** ONLY adults should attempt this and even adults should be VERY careful when attempting.

 Can you think of anything else or other suggestions? Please comment!

Obedience and training for the dog that runs away

WARNING any new dog or dog you're newly interacting (babysitting) with should ALWAYS be on a leash. Even if the owners have the dogs trained off leash, until you know it's safe for you, always have a leash. Every dog/human relationship can be different

A dog may run away because of the following some or all of the below:

1. They came from an abusive home
2. They were wild and didn't have much human interaction 
3. They have NO idea who you are and have no reason to trust you
4. They have been captured before and had bad experience
5. They think you're chasing them (that's SO frustrating...when they think it's fun)

Sully, ran off too quick and
found thank goodness.
Look at that face

When they come back to you, NEVER scold them, ONLY  encourage and shower them with treats or hugs because  yelling at them at this point won't teach them anything but  being scared for coming back. (That's probably why they run away to begin with)

Preventative steps:

1. FENCES don't always hold dogs. Unless you have a 6 foot fence, they WILL scale it and get away, especially with a running start momentum outside (above is our 9 lb foster Riesling who scaled a gate we thought was impossible!!)
2. Know where your dog is AT ALL TIMES (even going from kitchen to living room) Especially room near the door of your home
3. Always have a dog tag with your phone number for people to call
4. Martingale collars (they work wonderfully to tighten up when dogs pull on leashes so they don't slip away)
• Please be VERY careful with martingale collars, there's the adjuster and the clip, make sure those are smoothed out after placement and you can fit TWO fingers between collar and dogs neck.

• 

  This is a TRUE martingale. There are ones with buckles which are fine, but if you have a dog (large dog) who is very fearful, these are the best options 
  
  

  Dazzber Martingale Collar Nylon Dog Collar No Pull Pet Collar Heavy Duty for Medium and Large Dogs, Adjustable 17 Inch to 25 Inch, Turquoise Green

5. Always make sure main doors are shut (WATCH those screen doors! One pounce and it's goodbye pooch.
6. Always leash the dog when the door is still closed
7. NEVER underestimate the speed and sneakiness of the dog (they will ALWAYS be faster than you)
8. Teach against impulse ... even with the leash on, pause a moment when the door is open before walking out so they learn they don't need to bolt to get outside
9. Teaching the "come" command.  
10. Lots of positive reinforcement for short or long distance returns when they come back

What to do when they run away:

1. If there is a favorite something (treat, toy, car ride) bring it and try to let him or her see it
2. If there was a previous method that worked try it first (let's face it, it may not be the first or the last time)
3. If your dog likes car rides, try opening up the car door in the garage or wherever it's parked, they MAY jump in. IF the dog has already run off, drive the car SLOWLY, SLOWLY and see if he'll jump in. (Always watch traffic and don't drive toward a busier area for BOTH your sake)
4. CALM DOWN, don't ever run up and attack the dog, that has NEVER worked. Even you'd be scared.
5. Slowly walk toward, get LOW to the ground in a squat (welcoming and inviting), lightly clapping hands with "come here"
6. ALWAYS have a happy high pitched encouraging tone, no yelling. "Good boy/girl", "let's go home", "come here" whatever makes them happy
7. GRAB a pair of comfy slip on shoes, it may be a long haul, GRAB a jacket if it's fall or winter (jammies are never warm at night)
8. If there is a 2nd person, try to get them into yards or spaces with fence or corners so you can flank the dog
9. I've heard this or read this....run the opposite direction for dogs that like to chase (this has never worked for me....but hey whatever works right?)
10. If they've TRULY gotten away --- call the local police NON emergency line, animal control, notify neighbors friends, post on facebook if you have an account

Training for Food Aggression

** Do not ever allow young children (8 and under) alone with dogs and food if they have previous behavior of food aggression. 

This is never a good thing or cute or whatever excuse you want to make of it. Whether you only have one dog or no children, make this stop. It turns into other aggression issues you will not want.

Establishing chain of command is HUGE. If you have children, have the children (under supervision) scoop the dog food into the dog bowl to create that alpha bond with the dog(s) too.

Take the steps below with food (kibble or wet food), treats, bones, etc...

Steps to take:

1. When you feed them, make them pause before rushing to the bowl and inhaling the food (this will teach patience and remaining calm instead of excitement which can become aggression fast)
2. If they growl, immediately take away the bowl, (if it's not safe, softly kick the bowl away and grab it away). Put it up on the counter where they can see it but not reach it
3. Tell them "no" or "naughty" or whatever command you want to associate with inappropriate behavior
4. Walk away from dog and food (making sure they can't get it) for 1 to 5 minutes
5. Come back and give him food again, make him pause a bit before rushing into bowl
6. This time, stand close by ALWAYS MAKE SURE YOU CAN SEE HIS MOUTH, LOOK FOR SNARLING, showing teeth, etc
7. If they growl again, repeat steps 2 - 5 
8. If it's not a daily serving off food and the 1-5 minute intervals aren't working, take away treat, bone or toy indefinitely or for one hour or the next day.

Once you've discovered food aggression, here's things you can do:

1.  Sit nearby when they eat, start at arms length and scoot in closer and closer til you're next to them. IF at any point they start growling.....repeat above steps
2. Instead of feeding them with a bowl, put food into your hand and hand feed them. Create a positive bond (don't bite the hand that feeds you type understanding)
3. If you feel it's safe enough, while they're eating stick your finger or hand in their bowl at the edge just to practice that you can interrupt at any time and they shouldn't be scared or threatened.

If you have a dog who has been food aggression, it's best to stay away from buying treats that will last a long time because you are setting them up for failure. Big juicy bones are hard because they take forever to finish and they can take it into a private space and it's hard NOT to guard a bone, it's very primitive.

Lastly, once food aggression is defined, note for eating really fast and throwing up. Some dogs may have been in situations where they had to fight for food or didn't get enough. Eating too fast will upset their stomach. You may want to get a slow feeder which will help pace them. 

Link to purchase: Slow feeder

What Helps Shy Dogs??

There are many approaches to shy dogs I'm sure. I developed my way because the reality of having a foster dog is not knowing how long you'll have them so I try to find the safest, productive but most loving way to move the dog along behaviorally so they can fit into a home easier.

Let's face it, most people looking for dogs aren't looking for a handful. They're looking for a friend who will come when called and cuddle and gives you kisses. Not one that will pee every time you walk up to it, or run off every chance they get so you lose sleep about it.

However, I have found that shy dogs are the most loving dogs just looking for that someone they can devote every second and ounce of love to. And at some point someone or thing stripped that from them.

The first couple of days or the first week I let them do their thing to figure out who they are:

• basic functions: will they eat? drink? go potty?
• what makes them comfortable: a bed that hugs their body? a corner? another dog? (puppy mill dogs will love being around other dogs but super shy around humans)
• Is there any aggressive tendencies? 
• When you tug on the leash, do they resist and growl?
• When you walk up to their food do they growl? (food aggression refer to Training for food aggression)
• When you walk near the dog and it's back to a wall or corner does it grit it's teeth and growl?
• Knowing what causes aggression keeps everyone safe until the fear can be calmed
• Who they get along with?

• Men, women, children (careful with this one if aggression shown)
• other dogs
• cats or other small animals
• Can they walk on a leash?
• If on a super long leash, do they walk alongside you? Even if it's scared? Or do they super tug on the leash ready to dash away? (if they dash refer to Obedience and training for the dog that runs away)

FOOD and WATER: If your dog doesn't drink, eat or go potty those are life dependent behaviors that should get resolved as soon as you can. Try soft food or hot dogs. Place water in all places, sometimes best to crate the dog with a water dish and walk away. Eventually they'll calm down and drink water if necessary. OR they'll learn where the water dish is and drink when you fall asleep and all the lights are off when "the coast is clear."

GOING TO THE BATHROOM: Getting a shy dog to go potty is another beast. The first thing I try is a super long leash, one you usually put on a hook in the ground (but I just hold onto the end and let them walk.) Remember, NEVER leave a shy dog alone! First you want to create a bond and you can't bond if you're not there. 2nd, they WILL scale fences!

If they walk on a leash, go for a LONG walk. Eventually they'll have to go right? 

Sometimes dogs have never seen winter. Yes our rescue's dogs all come from Alabama to Wisconsin, it's very common they are confused with snow. Just shovel a patch of snow at the edge of the yard exposing some grass and be patient. Sometimes they're so cold they'll go right on the driveway.

If all else fails....crate or gate in a carpet-less room when you leave because it MAY happen when you're gone. It's not ideal, but it happens. After accidents, always walk the dog outside and say "potty" so they know it goes outside. Don't let them watch you clean it up. It may just take a couple days or a week to get them used to the yard or grass and eventually they WILL go. 

KEY POINT: WHEN THEY GO.....Give SUPER DUPER amounts of praise. Whether it be 100 "good boy/girl!!", lots of mini treats, lots of petting and hugs and kisses

COMFORT ITEMS: If your new dog finds a spot or bed or area they like to lay. Start introducing yourself in that area and petting them sitting next to them. If it's a doggy bed, then take the doggy bed where ever you want to introduce them to (ie kitchen, living room, bedroom, etc). They've already made a positive association, roll with it! Make sure comfort items don't turn into possessive aggression, if so take it away and don't give it back.

If you have a puppy mill dog and you have other dogs it's best to show love and affection to the other dogs in front of the puppy mill dog so they can observe that it's okay to be around THIS human. If you only have the dog you adopted or bought, then it will be patience and time. Every time they show interest or walk up to you be excited and praise or give treats. All dogs want affection, sometimes it's too scary to show it. :(

GETTING ALONG WITH HUMANS: No matter size or gender there are general rules to approach a shy dog.

1. Don't be loud and no quick movements (hence families with young children should be careful)
2. Try to approach from the side of the dog (head on is threatening in dog world) 
3. Get down to their level be it squatting or on your knees or even laying down
4. Let them sniff your hand
5. Start VERY gentle by letting the hand at the muzzle and slowly move along the top or side of their face. If they move their head into your hand, let it flow naturally where they rub against your hand
6. Slowly work your way to the body.
7. BEWARE of the backside or the bottom, dogs who are shy or new to you may suddenly be very scared when you reach their backside. (whine, pull away, low light growl)

LEASHES: Some dogs are just scared of the leash. It's been too traumatizing whatever experience they have had. Try leaving a leash hooked on their collar (once you've managed to finagle it on) and let them walk around the house with it until they get use to it. Hand out treats when putting on the leash for positive association. 

You Never Forget Your First Shy Dog

Casper, my 2nd foster dog but my first shy dog. He came from Alabama frighten to death with a brother who died from Parvo. It was also my first Wheaton terrier/lab mix. I know people love the wheatons, but Casper was the ULTIMATE mix. He didn't have the awkward look of a wheaton, but looked like a lab with the cotton soft wheaton fur. I admit it....he was a great pillow once we got to the point of our relationship where he allowed us to cuddle.

Casper was an all white good size pup. My first interaction was going to a farm where he was at the time and trying to drag him by leash into my car on a wet rainy night. My first night with him consisted of him finding every crevasse and corner he could hide from the world.  Any attempt to grab him made him burrow in deeper like a hermit crab.

One special place he learned  to burrow was underneath my low to the ground Ikea bed which our Sheltie loved laying because he fit just right. Casper though, was a tight squeeze, more like he didn't fit at all, but he sure darn tried. Eventually I bought 4x4s and boarded up all four sides of the bedframe so he had nowhere to go. I also bought doggy gates and gated him into the rooms we were in at all times. He was not allowed to be in the bedroom if we were in the living room. He was gated with all other doors shut if I was cooking dinner in the kitchen. It was the only way I could teach him relevance and understanding he had nothing to be scared about and it was okay to be in all spaces because it was just as much his space as ours. He may have been in the corner of the living room, or under he kitchen table, but he was in the same space. It was a start.

Step 2: Now that he knew the apartment, and couldn't get under the bed and hide for the rest of his life, it was time for Phase 2. I dug him out of corners and made him sit on the floor by us, or the couch next to us. I cuddle and pet him so he learned loving affection. That the hand is not a weapon. 

Casper's first night under the book shelf in our living room

Step 3: Just love him to death after he realizes he never wants to leave your side. Eventually he was even off leash. He'd go potty in one spot in our yard and run right back to the door. The next thing you know he was jumping into bed trying to cuddle. It was so nice cuddling with Casper with his ultra soft fur in the middle of winter.

 

FUREVER HOME: Casper was adopted by a wonderful lady who had and loved Wheaton Terriers growing up but couldn't find it in her heart to buy from a breeder or pet store (bless her heart)!!! So she adopted from a rescue! I told her all the good and the bad and how she'd have to work with him slowly and she was more than ever patient and excited. Then Casper graduated obedience school and ran a farm alongside horses and always rode in mom's truck everywhere she went. 

Now being that this was my first. It was heartbreaking when mom reached out to tell me Casper had passed of old age but how absolutely wonderful he was.

You never forget your first and I tell ya, when he left that night he kept tugging on that leash looking back at me....I just kept telling him "it's okay. You're going to be so loved." I held it altogether until I got upstairs and I just broke into tears "he must think I am mad, I hope he understands how much I love him." 

And so began my journey into working with more behaviorally stunted pups who just wants a chance to discover love!!